At least I have Pringles.

     I'd gone through this trip relatively hiccup free. I'd gotten colds, but that was as bad as it got.

 

     I'd spent the night previously at this restaurant at 10 Corso Como in Milan. It was pretty good, and as usual throughout my whole stay in Italy after a meal was wine drunk. I'd built up a good tolerance and wasn't sloppy, but after a day of travel with little food since morning was buzzing pretty hard. Near the end of my meal a couple sat down at the table next to mine. I paid the check and left. I didn't even get coffee, because I was just exhausted beyond belief. The apartment where I was staying was thankfully right across the street.

     So off I went, barely took my clothes off, before I passed out. I woke up the next day hangoverless and ready to head to The Duomo. Showered and was getting my usual stuff, camera, wallet, passport. Uh oh...where's my wallet? I lifted up the blanket on the bed. Not there. I looked under the bed, I went to the bathroom. Not there. I dumped all the contents out of my backpack and felt through all the pockets. Not there. The apt was really not that big and minimalist in furnishing. Maybe 300 sq ft if that. It was a studio/efficiency. At this point, I started to panic and thought about what I did the night before. I left the restaurant and strolled outside and walked to my apartment. No one got close enough to me to take anything and wouldn't have had a chance to. 

 

     It was 10am and the restaurant hadn't opened yet. There was a security person there that said they wouldn't open until 1130am, but I should probably wait until 12. That left a full 2 hours to expect the worse. The apartment, unfortunately did not have wifi, so I had to grab my Kindle and phone, and go outside. I looked up my accounts online to see if there was any activity. None on the credit cards, and my bank's site was down for maintenance. Nonetheless I was still freaking out. My phone was dying and the only internet available was blessedly free internet that I guess is provided by the Milan city government. Spotty though. Kindle browsing is shit. It is a horrible HORRIBLE feeling when all your money (yes I know I probably should've kept some cash separate in my room) is just gone. I had no money to use at an internet cafe, no money to take a cab to the airport if I needed to leave..nothing. I thought of calling Mr. Brknsuitcase  to wire me some money, but how would I get to Western Union to get it? I didn't have cab fare, not to mention it would've been useless anyway as it was Sunday....when everything (important anyway) is closed. 

     Then I thought. Travel insurance! Surely they wouldn't be able to replace any money that I had that day. They would have to wire the money and again, how would I get it? The embassy would probably bail me out, but it was closed as well. All these thoughts ran through my head and all solutions were just impossible, outside of begging people for money on the street...in Milan on a street where dresses cost 600.00 USD and up. It was dire. At best, I would miss my flight out of Italy if Mr. Brknsuitcase could wire the money in the morning. At worst I'd be stuck in Italy for however many days until travel insurance or wire transfer came in. I went back into the apartment and tried to think of my way out of the situation, coming up against a brick wall each time. And I don't know, once I realized the situation was completely out of my control, I calmed down. It would eventually work out, I told myself, even if I have to suffer for a while. I had a can of Pringles left from my train trip and ate one chip considering that this would be what I'd have to live on for the next few days. 

So dramatic. :D

Anyway, the two hours pass and I walk over to the restaurant. The waiter recognized me and smiled. At that moment I knew I was saved! He said, 'Ahh you left your wallet here.' and I gave him the biggest hug I've ever given anyone! He laughed and a woman came out and said that she actually found it on my table and ziploc'd and stapled it so no one would tamper with it. All my money and cards were there. I thanked them profusely and offered her money as a reward, but she wouldn't take it. I was so hopped up on adrenaline, my hands were shaking. They offered a coffee and I settled down. I left a big tip.

     So let this serve as a cautionary tale. I knew these, but obviously didn't follow it.

1. Keep an emergency stash of money, a credit card, and maybe a can of Pringles in your room.

2. Check yo'self when you leave any establishment.

The end.

Brknsuitcase thinks about travel - Italy Pt 2

Arrival in Venice S. Lucia:
I gotta get a boat..how do I get a boat?

San Marco Piazza 

What boat do I want?
Oh I have directions..ok. Boat 5.1..where is boat 5.1?
Well dummy it would probably help if you walk down the steps to the dock. Be brave.
Ok well here's the ticket place.
How do you say 'I need..'
I know!
Ho bisogno di biglietto per 5.1. Say it and see if she laughs at you.
She understands!! I am so awesome!
I have no idea what she just said. I suck.
Which one is 5.1? Here it is!
It's going to rain. Please don't rain while I'm on the boat.
It's so cold!
The boat is here..I guess I should call my B&B to tell them I'm on the boat.
How do you say boat in Italian?
Pronto? What is Pronto?
Ciao Lorenzo? Sono brknsuitcase. Ho prenotato..oh you speak English!
Must remember to say 'Pronto' when calling someone from here on out.
This boat is full. I gotta stand, great. I gotta get my surfboard skills up.
This lady is volunteering herself as my stabilization..we're both going down.
Oh people are getting off! I'm getting that seat up front!
I can't believe I'm actually here. I am in Venice, looking at Venice!
Please don't rain.
It's so cold! Maybe it was a mistake sitting out here.
Here's my stop.
Where's my B&B guy. Well there's this guy next to me and everyone is off the boat.
I'm gonna call him to make sure it's him.
It is!

Making our way to the B&B:
He seems nice.
Is he giving me directions? Cuz it feels like a maze right now.
He just recommended this restaurant. Make mental note.
Ahh we're here!
All these keys look alike. Maybe I won't leave the room.
Well this is cozy. Bigger than I expected.
Throw your bags down and get out right now.
Oh wait. We have to have the talk.
A map and how to get places. We look close to everything.
Now go eat!

First time out and about:
Now which key again?
This little street is so cool. Which direction do I want to go.
Oh no! RAIN! Why didn't I bring an umbrella?!
Where is that restaurant? WHERE IS IT?!
Fuck it. I'll just go in this one.
I know I look like a wet rat. I'm hungry, please feed me.
I am a character from a Dickens novel.
Aaaah. Breadsticks and water.
Ohh caprese salad! I am totally basic bitching right now,
And spicy sauce on pasta. Make mental note to be more adventurous with the menu in the future.
Am I supposed to get a second plate? I think I'm supposed to get a second plate.
Screw it, I'm getting steak. Yes I am American.
Red wine..give it to me!
Oh no..Americans with southern accents. So loud! So irritating.
Stop it, you sound like this everyday in normal life! Don't be that self-hating tourist.
SHUT UP!
I have been on a plane, train, and a boat for most of the day and am drenched from rain. I have a right to be grumpy dammit.
Caprese..so hungry.
Is this pasta raw? Al dente? Meh, it's passable.
Steak..yummy!
I can't believe I'm getting buzzed from one glass of wine.
No, no coffee. Check please before I pass out at the table.
Umm..shit..where is my B&B?
Oh god I forgot to bring the map!
What is the number..46?
Ok this place looks familiar.
This isn't it.
I'm going to be a Dickens character for real!
Is there a cockney Italian accent?
All these alleys look alike!
The door..I think this is it!
Directly across from the restaurant where I just ate. Nice. Idiot.
Which key? Let's try all of them.
Success!
ZZZZ...

     To sum up the rest of the trip, I must say I loved Italy. It was quite possibly the loneliest, romantic, and beautiful trips I've ever taken. I had moments in Italy that were pure brilliance, so much so I want to return soonish. As it was mid October the weather was warm for the first week and a half and then changed in one night to cold for the rest of the trip.
My packing list was as follows:
1 Sweater
2 long sleeve shirts
2 short sleeve tshirts
1 tank top
1 pair of jeans
1 pair of khakis
1 pair of leggings
1 skirt
4 pair of underwear
1 pair of boots
2 scarves
1 Packable rain jacket
1 tote courtesy of Urban Outfitters, very thin material and took no space nor significant weight.
1 Purse - small to med. ziptop with a small outside pocket that also zipped. It takes a real tug to open so I would know when I was being pickpocketed. Thick leather straps with no clasps..so uncuttable without a LOT of effort and no surprise unclasping from the bag itself.

My backpack, purse, and camera(put in backpack).

My plane outfit was a scarf, blue jeans, sweater with tank underneath, underwear (some people go commando), and boots. My purse contained my Kindle, smartphone, earphones, passport, wallet, and 2 pens.

Electronics:
I had to sacrifice my laptop after much anxiety about weight. I flew Emirates and they only allowed 15lbs for carryon. I was reconfiguring my backpack (REI Vagabond 40L) right up until the time I had to leave so I could fit it in, but as I was working with the bare minimum I thought I could handle clothing wise, 3lbs of laptop put me right at 15lbs. Not to mention, the pack felt heavy when putting it on.
So I figured I would just take my Kindle Fire, which was a godsend and a pain in the ass as I will explain later.
Kindle - Hours of entertainment while waiting on trains, being on trains and nights when you can't sleep, but when you really need to get on the web for an emergency, such as when I needed to after I lost my wallet, it really was not the best. Also some plugins didn't work and the screen was too small for some webpages. I have an old Kindle Fire so maybe this is fixed in the newer gens.
Smartphone
Nikon Coolpix L830 and camera bag- I used this camera maybe 20% of the time I was there and mostly used my smartphone just because it was handy to just whip out and click. This camera did take nice photos, crisper than my smartphone, but that could be due to my shit photography skills. Usually when I went out I would take the camera just in case and the camera bag. The camera bag would serve as a purse also sometimes especially for long walk days.

Toiletries:
As I stated before, the weather turned on a dime when I was there. I got sick twice. Once in Venice, probably due to getting rained on and once in Matera. A thin sweater, rain jacket, and scarf were no match for the cold wind that slapped my face once I got to Matera.
Makeup - two lipsticks, lipliner, foundation.
Shampoo - Here is where I made a little fuck up. I packed packed two shampoos accidentally. One liquid and one solid. For whatever reason, I thought the solid was a conditioner. So imagine my surprise when after I washed with the shampoo, my 'conditioner' started to lather up. This is jacked up because my hair mats/tangles when shampooed and straightens out/detangles when it's conditioned. I almost cried, but to make do with this horrible situation, I poured a good bit of the olive oil in my hair and it came out fine! YAY!
Olive oil/jasmine mix - Ashiness (and bad hair day) prevention. TSA compliant.
Face moisturizer - small jar
Beano - I thought I would get flight gas, but that didn't happen at all this trip. Probably because I didn't eat at all before leaving.
Allergy medicine - Saved my life when incessant sneezing and stuffy nose kept me from sleeping.
Nasal spray- Nuclear nostril clearer
Anti -diarrheal - Hey you never know. Wound up not needing, thank god.
Razor - because hair

     When I got to JFK via Delta to make my connection to Emirates which would take me to Milan, I went to the desk agent, who, when I showed him all I was taking, replied incredulously, 'That's it?! You pack light!'. That dude made my day! I wanted to make an Academy Award like speech, thanking REI and the countless Youtube videos I watched in preparation for this moment. I just said 'Thanks.'..like a dork. I was very proud of myself though. I was fretting about my purse, because Emirates states if you're flying economy, you're only allowed one carryon. Considering that my backpack would count as my one carryon, I wasn't entirely sure if they would let me on with my purse. It wasn't a thing at all and my backpack was a stealthy 12lbs. However when I got on the plane, I found that my backpack jutted out just a little bit when I put it in lengthwise (vertical) in the overhead. Like a murderer quickly covering up the scene of a crime I smushed it down as best I could to make it fit and it was fine.

Up, up, and away!

   
     Man, Emirates. I know all flights are not like this, but my particular flight over (AND coming back) was full except for my row. You know that feeling you get when it's close to time to take off and you get your hopes up that you'll have the row to yourself, only to be dashed when some jackass shows up late and harshes your scene. I had my hopes up and then hope turned into elation! A 3 seat row! ALL MINE! I looked around at everyone, in my disbelief as if to say, 'Can you believe this shit?! Can you?!'. Maybe the gate agent was a gate angel! It happened on the way back home too! Anyway, Emirates is the best. A huge selection of movies and you can get on the internet for free (even though I didn't know that going over). I hadn't eaten anything before I got on the plane at 930pm so the airplane food, could've been dead rat and it would've been delicious. It wasn't dead rat however and it was pretty tasty..I think it was chicken..always chicken.

     I landed in Milan and the rest as they say is history. I loved walking and getting lost in Venice and how it would turn into a ghost town after 4 or 5pm. I loved crossing the Tiber from Trastevere everyday in order to see the sights in central Rome. I loved the weight of history everywhere you went in Rome. I loved taking the trains and seeing the beautiful emerald countryside with villas dotting the piedmont and hills. I loved the stony monotone , beautiful day and night skies of Matera and how no one really spoke English. It's when I really felt I was in Italy. I loved Spello and the peaceful small town village feel inside the roman gates and an impossibly romantic walks through olive groves and alleys.

    I even loved Milan, for jolting me back to reality, modernity,style, and my new coat! I loved/hated that lunch and dinner would take 3 hours each and how I would wind up stuffed and drunk after both. I love that there's siesta hours incorporated into everyone's workday. I loved when I would have to leave for the next town afraid and excited about what laid ahead. I loved traveling by train and getting to finish novels I half read during the year. I loved all the apts and B&Bs where I hung my hat at the end of the day and made me feel like a local if only for a few days to a week at a time. I loved all of it! Ok, I didn't looove taking the metro in Milan. When (not if) I go back, I am definitely going to hit more of the southern end and maybe tackle Sicily as well. Until then, arrivederci!